Monday, March 18, 2013

Issey Miyake was born in Hiroshima, in the southern part of Japan, in 1938. In 1965 he graduated from Tama Art University in Tokyo, where he majored in graphic design. Following graduation, he went to Paris just three months after Kenzo Takada, the first Japanese designer to became successful in France, arrived there. He then went to New York to work with the American designer Geoffrey Beene before returning to Tokyo, where he founded the Miyake Design Studio in 1970. One of Miyake's New York friends took some of his design samples to Vogue magazine and a major department store, Bloomingdale's. Both Vogue and Bloomingdale's were enthusiastic about his work, and Bloomingdale's was so impressed that Miyake got a small section in the store. Kawamura, Yuniya. "Miyake, Issey." The Berg Fashion Library. The Berg Fashion Library, 2005. Web. 4 Mar. 2013. . Kawamura, Yuniya. "Miyake, Issey." The Berg Fashion Library. The Berg Fashion Library, 2005. Web. 4 Mar. 2013. . Miyake is best known for his original fabrics. He collaborates with his textile director, Makiko Minagawa, who interprets his abstract ideas. With Minagawa and the Japanese textile mills, he introduced his most commercially successful collection, Pleats Please, in 1993. Traditionally, pleats are permanently pressed before a garment is cut, but he did it the other way round. He cut and assembled a garment two-and-a-half to three times its proper size. Then he folded, ironed, and oversewed the material so that the straight lines remained in place. Finally the garment was placed in a press between two sheets of paper, from which it emerged with permanent pleats.Kawamura, Yuniya. "Miyake, Issey." The Berg Fashion Library. The Berg Fashion Library, 2005. Web. 4 Mar. 2013. . Miyake has said, "I do not create a fashionable aesthetic … I create a style based on life" (Mendes and de la Haye 1999, p. 233). He is opposed to the words "haute couture," "mode," and "fashion," because they imply a quest for novelty; over the course of his career, he stretched the boundaries of fashion, reshaped the symmetry of clothes, let wrapped garments respond to the body's shape and movement, and destroyed all previous definition of clothing and fashion. It was Miyake who set the stage for the Japanese look in the fashion establishment.The Berg Fashion Library. The Berg Fashion Library, 2005. Web. 4 Mar. 2013. . McNeil, Peter. "Fashion Designers." The Berg Fashion Library. The Berg Fashion Library, n.d. Web. 4 Mar. 2013. . "Dress." The Berg Fashion Library. The Berg Fashion Library, n.d. Web. 4 Mar. 2013. .

Sunday, March 10, 2013

Extra Credit Post

Isabel Marant is a French fashion designer known for her bohemian aesthetic and fervently coveted creations. Embodying a casual, perfectly tousled but never over-thought look, her clothes are worn by some of the world's most fashionable stars including Kate Moss, Sienna Miller, Kate Bosworth, Rachel Weisz and Alexa Chung. Holboro, Olivia Vogue online; Isabel Marant Biography.06 July 2012. Web. March 10, 2013;. Marant was born in Paris in 1967 to a German mother - a model - and a French photographer father. Her parents divorced when she was young and Marant was raised primarily by her father, whom she resembles: "My father married a German model and dreamt of a little blonde daughter like his wife. Alas, I was his spitting image - very Frenchy!" she has said.Holboro, Olivia Vogue online; Isabel Marant Biography.06 July 2012. Web. March 10, 2013;.Following her studies Marant interned with Parisian designer Michel Klein in 1987. She also worked with Bridget Yorke on two collections and assisted art director Marc Ascoli on projects for Chloé, Martine Sitbon, and Yohji Yamamoto. In 1994 she set up her own label with a studio in Paris' trendy Marais district. As when she was young, she bases her creations on her own style and tastes: "I am my first customer... My approach has always been: would I like to wear this garment? I do prêt-a-porter; I do not revolutionise the fashion world," she said in 2011. Her first show, for the spring-summer 1995 season, was held in the courtyard of a squat with her friends modelling. Marant won the Award de la Mode in 1997, and the Whirlpool Award for best female designer in 1998. Marant’s label is a ‘melting mode’, a trendsetter’s favourite with its mix of minimalist and bohemian. The obvious femininity of floating dresses is offset by louche minimalist masculinity and unlike many of her Parisian contemporaries Marant’s strain of chic has an almost affordable price tag. Holboro, Olivia Vogue online; Isabel Marant Biography.06 July 2012. Web. March 10, 2013;. Isabel Marant is known for her eclectic Bohemian and rocker styles that are worn by trendy models and actors across the world. Her designs are unique and trendy and stand out from any other designer. She was one of the first designers to design the trendy wedge sneaker that is still coveted today. Holboro, Olivia Vogue online; Isabel Marant Biography.06 July 2012. Web. March 10, 2013;. These images depict Marant's bohemian style. Curators of Style; We are all Customers. Designer Profile Isabel Marant. 01 May 2011. Web. March 10, 2013. Curators of Style; We are all Customers. Designer Profile Isabel Marant. 01 May 2011. Web. March 10, 2013. Anine Bing has been in the fashion industry ever since she started modeling at the age of 15. Since 2009 Anine is also the front singer/songwriter of the band Kill Your Darlings. Besides music and modeling, she has done several design collaborations with different brands. Eventually Anine began dreaming about making her own clothing line, a dream which is finally becoming true. "I want to create clothes that are easy to wear. The pieces should work just as good for everyday use as for a night out. To me the quality together with the fit are the two most important factors in a good piece of clothing, so naturally that’s what I focus on in the design" The clothes are made of the finest materials, all according to Anine’s rock-bohemian style. Anine gets her inspiration from music, L.A. flea markets, bloggers and from life at large. "I am a mom, but that doesn't stop me from wanting to dress well. My aim is that regardless if you are a mom, a model, a lawyer or a teacher you should be able to find cool and suitable pieces from my label". Anine Bing Biography About. Web. 10 March 2013. www.aninebing.com. Anine Bing Biography About. Web. 10 March 2013. www.aninebing.com. Anine Bing Biography About. Web. 10 March 2013. www.aninebing.com. Similar to Isabel Marant, Anine Bing combines bohemian and street edgy styles in her new line. Both designers bring their personal street styles to the lines they design resulting in unique clothing. In addition, both designers are around the same price points as well. Celebrities and bloggers are wearing Anine Bing. One big difference between both designers is that Isabel Marant has been designing since the early 90's while Anine Bing just launched her line in 2013. As such, Isabel Marant has an established following and is opening boutiques and has opened boutiques across the world. Because it takes time to establish good will in a brand and a business, Anine Bing has quite a way to go to reach the status of Isabel Marant. However, her designs are cutting edge and if she makes the right business decisions she would have a very successful line. In comparing both designers Isabel Marant has a lot more pieces in her collection versus Anine Bing who is just starting out. I would say that I really like both designers and look forward to seeing their future success (as well as mine of course :)).
Domenico Dolce was born in Polizzi Generosa (near Palermo, Sicily) on 13 September 1958. His family owned a small clothing business, where Domenico worked from childhood. Stefano Gabbana was born in Milan on 14 November 1962. He studied graphics but soon turned to fashion. After a brief period working as assistant designers, they founded the Dolce & Gabbana label, which had its first runway show as part of the New Talent group in Milan in 1985, upon the invitation of Italian fashion promoter Beppe Modenese.Reinach, Simona. "Dolce & Gabbana." The Berg Fashion Library. The Berg Fashion Library, 2005. Web. 10 Mar. 2013. . In 1986 they produced their first collection, called "Real Women." In 1987 they launched their knitwear line and in 1989 their beachwear and lingerie lines. Beginning in 1988 they produced their ready-to-wear line in Domenico Dolce's family-owned atelier, located in Legnano, Milan. The first Dolce & Gabbana men's collection appeared in 1990. In 1994 they launched the D&G label, inspired by street style and a more youthful look. The clothes were produced and distributed by Ittierre."Dolce & Gabbana." The Berg Fashion Library. The Berg Fashion Library, 2005. Web. 10 Mar. 2013. . Dolce and Gabbana are considered the inventors of a Mediterranean style that draws its inspiration from the Sicily of Luchino Visconti's 1963 film The Leopard and the women of Italian realism, sensual and austere like Anna Magnani, to whom they dedicated a collection whose key element was the 1940s slip. "Dolce & Gabbana." The Berg Fashion Library. The Berg Fashion Library, 2005. Web. 10 Mar. 2013. . Dolce & Gabbana is one of the best examples of the explosion in Italian ready-to-wear that occurred during the mid-1980s. Creativity and versatility, the union of the press and the star system, a range of products and clothing lines, and careful attention to distribution are all elements that contribute to the realization of an integrated system of communication. "Dolce & Gabbana." The Berg Fashion Library. The Berg Fashion Library, 2005. Web. 10 Mar. 2013. . Dolce and Gabbana keep their fashion fun, classy, and timeless which is why they have retained a successful following of celebrities, socialites, and actors.

Monday, March 4, 2013

The designer Roy Halston Frowick (1932–1990) was born in Des Moines, Iowa, and began his career as a milliner. He subsequently rose to become one of the most important American designers of the 1970s, whose influence was still being felt into the twenty-first century. Moving beyond hats, Halston went on to design his first clothing collection for Bergdorf Goodman in June 1966. Two years later he left the retailer to form his own company, Halston Ltd. In December of 1968 Halston showed his first namesake collection in his new Angelo Donghia–designed showroom at 33 East Sixty-Eighth Street in New York City. As his business grew, Halston took over the entire building, creating a retail boutique in 1972 that took up three floors of the building, with each floor selling a different collection (and at a different price point). Later that year a ready-to-wear company, Halston Originals, was formed with two partners and headquartered on New York's Seventh Avenue. Rottman, Fred. "Halston." The Berg Fashion Library. The Berg Fashion Library, 2005. Web. 4 Mar. 2013. . Supermodel Central The Big Halston The BIG Halston Whoopsie F*#$ing Daisy: Rebranding Needs Redirection; Blog. 14 Dec. 2011. 3 March 2013. In 1978 the company moved its design studio to a spacious venue on the twenty-first floor of the Olympic Tower at Fifty-first Street and Fifth Avenue. With the bigger space once again came an increased workload. Eventually, Halston was designing four ready-to-wear, four sportswear, and two made-to-order collections per year. All this was in addition to furs, shoes, swimwear, robes, intimate apparel, men's wear, luggage, and uniforms for both Avis Rent A Car System and Braniff Airline employees. Halston also continued to design costumes for his celebrity friends, including the performer Liza Minnelli, and for Martha Graham's dance company.Rottman, Fred. "Halston." The Berg Fashion Library. The Berg Fashion Library, 2005. Web. 4 Mar. 2013. Supermodel Central The Big Halston The BIG Halston Whoopsie F*#$ing Daisy: Rebranding Needs Redirection; Blog. 14 Dec. 2011. 3 March 2013. Halston was one of the premiere designers of the 1970s. He dressed celebrity clients like Bianca Jagger and Liza Minnelli. His simplistic and classic designs were coveted by celebrities and actors of that time. He also spent alot of time at Studio 54. His popularity waned in the 1980's and although he tried to revitalize his brand it never had the cult following that it did in the 1970s. Sadly, Halston passed away from complications of Aids in 1990. Recently, the brand was revived under Halston Heritage and has been successful in the last few years. The designs are reminiscent of the 1970s with a modern twist.

Monday, February 18, 2013

Calvin Klein was born in the Bronx, New York, on 19 November 1942. He attended the High School of Industrial Arts and the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, where he studied fashion design. Klein's first line was discovered by a buyer from Bonwit Teller, who was so impressed by the collection of finely tailored coats in fresh colors that he sent Klein to meet with Mildred Custin, then president of Bonwit Teller. Custin placed a large order with Klein, giving a jumpstart to the newly formed Calvin Klein Limited. Klein's designs, even in the excessive 1980s, continued to evoke a minimalist aesthetic, with a relatively restrained use of embellishment and color. The core of the collection was, as always, made up of timeless pieces in good fabrics. The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CDFA) recognized Klein when he won designer of the year awards in 1982 and 1983 for his women's collection. Klein won a CFDA award in 1986 for both his men's and women's collections, the first time a designer had won both awards in the same year.Fenston, Gretchen. "Klein, Calvin." The Berg Fashion Library. The Berg Fashion Library, 2005. Web. 18 Feb. 2013. Haberman, Nicole. Midwest Marketing Blog. 2013. Web. 18 Feb. 2013. In the 1990s Calvin Klein's worldwide expansion into Asia, Europe, and the Middle East markets brought his name international consumer recognition. The decade also saw Klein revamp the jeans/sport division of the company, creating the cK collection, made to appeal to a younger, hipper customer. Klein had been farsighted enough to realize the importance of archiving his work, so a constant recall of his roots was readily available. The cK line, largely inspired by these vintage collection pieces, was recognized by the CFDA with an award in 1993.The name Calvin Klein represents so many different things—controversial advertising campaigns, the leading name in the designer-jeans phenomenon, stylish boyish underwear for women, and brilliant and ruthless business practices. So much of what Klein designed has become fundamentally what Americans wear that his clothing can rightly be called an American uniform. Fenston, Gretchen. "Klein, Calvin." The Berg Fashion Library. The Berg Fashion Library, 2005. Web. 18 Feb. 2013. Villesin, Laura. Miista Fashion Blog. Web. 2012. Calvin Klein has been successful as a designer for many years because of his minimalist and classic styles. He shies away from major trends and sticks to the basics which will last for many more years to come.

Monday, February 11, 2013

Ralph Lauren's fascination with style began in early childhood. In 1968 Lauren left Beau Brummel, taking the name Polo with him, and went into business with the suit maker Norman Hilton. Lauren began expanding, first into a full range of clothing and furnishings for men, and then, in 1971, into women's fashions. Even in those early days, he displayed characteristics that defined his career: an innate understanding of branding (he embroidered his polo player logo on the cuffs of his first women's shirts, creating one of the most singular brand identities in the history of marketing. In the late 1980s Lauren and his creative services department unveiled the extensive renovation and preservation project that is the Rhinelander Mansion, long one of New York's architectural treasures, and now the backdrop to Lauren's ultimate Polo retail store. It has forever redefined fashion retailing. Gross, Michael. "Lauren, Ralph." The Berg Fashion Library. The Berg Fashion Library, 2005. Web. 11 Feb. 2013. .
Gross, Michael. "Lauren, Ralph." The Berg Fashion Library. The Berg Fashion Library, 2005. Web. 11 Feb. 2013. . At age sixty-five Lauren, one of the greatest businessmen-designers in fashion history, remained driven and unsatisfied, still struggling to prove himself. Today, Lauren's fashions are still sold in the biggest retailers in the country. Gross, Michael. "Lauren, Ralph." The Berg Fashion Library. The Berg Fashion Library, 2005. Web. 11 Feb. 2013. .
Sigurjónsdóttir, Æsa. "Iceland." The Berg Fashion Library. The Berg Fashion Library, n.d. Web. 11 Feb. 2013. .
"Advertisement: Ralph Lauren (Ralph Lauren)." Vogue Aug 01 1995: 82-. The Vogue Archive. Web. 11 Feb. 2013 .
"Advertisement: Ralph Lauren (Ralph Lauren)." Vogue Sep 01 1998: 37,37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45. The Vogue Archive. Web. 11 Feb. 2013 . As you can see, Ralph Lauren is known for his classic and eternal styles.

Sunday, February 3, 2013

Born Lee McQueen in the East End of London in 1969, Alexander McQueen was the youngest of six children to a taxi driver and a social history teacher. He left school at the age of sixteen and started an apprenticeship with the Savile Row tailors Anderson and Sheppard. From there McQueen moved to the tailors Gieves and Hawkes, the theatrical costumers Bermans and Nathans, the designer Koji Tatsuno in London, and (at age twenty) to Romeo Gigli in Milan. Returning to London in 1990, he sought employment teaching pattern-cutting at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design; instead, despite his lack of formal fashion training, he was offered a place in the fashion design course as a graduate student Evans, Caroline. "McQueen, Alexander." The Berg Fashion Library. The Berg Fashion Library, 2005. Web. 4 Feb. 2013. .
Hilton, Perez. New Alexander McQueen Book Release! 4 Sep. 2012 Web. 4 Feb. 2013 http://i.perezhilton.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/alexander-mcqueen-photo-book__oPt.jpg As Alexander McQueen he immediately started his own label, first showing in autumn-winter 1993. His early collections, such as Nihilism (spring-summer 1994) and Highland Rape (autumn-winter 1995) relied on shock tactics rather than wearability, a strategy that helped him establish a strong identity. With their harsh styling, the designs in these collections explored variations on the themes of abuse and victimization. They frequently featured slashed, stabbed, and torn cloth, as well as McQueen's brutally sharp style of tailoring. He introduced extraordinary narrative and aesthetic content to his runway shows. Styling, showmanship, and dramatic presentation became as important as the design of the clothes; models walked on water, were drenched in "golden showers" on an ink-flooded catwalk, or were surrounded by rings of flame. "McQueen, Alexander." The Berg Fashion Library. The Berg Fashion Library, 2005. Web. 4 Feb. 2013. .
Lee, Sonja. British Fashion, Alexander McQueen. 5 May 2010. Web.
Lee, Sonja. British Fashion, Alexander McQueen. 5 May 2010. Web.
Lee, Sonja. British Fashion, Alexander McQueen. 5 May 2010. Web. I really enjoy Alexander McQueen's fashion creations because they were extremely well tailored and unique. Each piece was hand crafted and took a great amount of time to design. In addition, McQueen can be credited for the first designer to use skulls in his fashion pieces. His runway shows were always extravagant and dramatic! Sadly, he committed suicide in 2010.

Monday, January 28, 2013

In his role as creative director for the Gucci Group, designing collections for both Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent, Tom Ford was central to early twenty-first-century fashion. Under Ford's direction, creativity and innovation shared equal value with marketing and promotion in the positioning of the brands. Born in 1962 and raised in San Marcos, Texas, and Santa Fe, New Mexico, Ford first began his career as a model for television advertisements before studying interior design at Parsons School of Design in New York City. In his final year of school, he changed his focus to fashion design. As a freelance designer on Seventh Avenue, he first worked for Cathy Hardwick and then in 1988 in the jeans department of Perry Ellis, under the short-lived direction of Marc Jacobs. Today he designs everything from shoes, clothing, bags, and sunglasses. O'Neill, Alistair. "Ford, Tom." The Berg Fashion Library. The Berg Fashion Library, 2005. Web. 28 Jan. 2013. .
"Evening Ensemble." The Berg Fashion Library. The Berg Fashion Library, n.d. Web. 28 Jan. 2013. .
Marie, Cassee. Lessons From Tom Ford To An Unlikely Fashionista. Writing in Style Living in Elegance Blog. 28 Jan. 2013. Web. 6 Oct. 2011. .
Marie, Cassee. Lessons From Tom Ford To An Unlikely Fashionista. Writing in Style Living in Elegance Blog. 28 Jan. 2013. Web. 6 Oct. 2011. .
Marie, Cassee. Lessons From Tom Ford To An Unlikely Fashionista. Writing in Style Living in Elegance Blog. 28 Jan. 2013. Web. 6 Oct. 2011. .
Marie, Cassee. Lessons From Tom Ford To An Unlikely Fashionista. Writing in Style Living in Elegance Blog. 28 Jan. 2013. Web. 6 Oct. 2011. .

Monday, January 21, 2013

Anna Sui is one of the most successful in the East Asian markets among all the East Asian designers, with thirty boutiques in five countries, and her collection is sold in three hundred stores in over thirty countries. She moved from Detroit to New York to study at the Parsons School of Design. In 1980, Sui presented six original pieces at the Boutique Show and immediately received an order from a major New York department store, which featured one of her designs in a New York Times advertisement. That same year, Sui launched her own business, which operated out of her apartment and continued throughout the 1980s. Her business growth was gradual, yet very steady and solid. In 1991 she premiered her first runway show, and the following year she opened her first flagship store on Greene Street in Soho. In 1999, her signature fragrance, Anna Sui, and cosmetic line were launched. She has five fragrances: Sui Dreams launched in 2000, Sui Love in 2001, Dolly Girly in 2003, Dolly Girl Ooh La Love in 2004, and Secret Wish in 2005. Kawamura, Yuniya. "East Asian Fashion Designers in Local and International Markets." The Berg Fashion Library. The Berg Fashion Library, Sept. Web. 21 Jan. 2013. .
Kawamura, Yuniya. "East Asian Fashion Designers in Local and International Markets." The Berg Fashion Library. The Berg Fashion Library, Sept. Web. 21 Jan. 2013. .
A pair of stockings designed by Anna Sui circa 1994. Pair of stockings." The Berg Fashion Library. The Berg Fashion Library, n.d. Web. 21 Jan. 2013. .
Supermodels at the Anna Sui 1993 show. Adamson, Celeste, "Anna Sui Releases New Book" January 17, 2011. Celeste Adamson. January 20, 2012.http://celesteadamson.tumblr.com/post/2793630446/anna-sui-releases-new-book. Naomi Campbell in Anna Sui circa 1992
Adamson, Celeste, "Anna Sui Releases New Book" January 17, 2011. Celeste Adamson. January 20, 2012 http://celesteadamson.tumblr.com/post/2793630446/anna-sui-releases-new-book.